This blog is a translation of my original blog, written in French (publication dates are kept).

March 7, 2010

Push the tagged doors and discover the real Christiania (part 2)

As I was saying the last time, within Christiania is hidden an incredible alternative cultural life that a non-informed tourist wondering through the aisles couldn't suspect at first sight. Despite the fact that this zone is the third touristical attraction of Denmark, a lot of visitors ignore that it is a fantastic place to go out by night.

Indeed, there are actually concert halls, bars and even restaurants! They all have a special atmosphere unique to Christiania, and that's why I love them. So I will give you an overview of the key spots.

Let's start with the Loppen (the Flea). It's the easiest to find: the first building at the entrance.

It's reached through a very dark hall, and then you climb those weed-flavored stairs:

Upstairs is the Musikloppen, the concert hall with candles inside and exposed beams, one of the most popular concert venues in Copenhagen.

And at the second floor, you push a door with just black graffiti on it and then, this is magic:

You are in the Spiseloppen, an excellent organic restaurant. I tested it twice, I assure you that the food is delicious (no so cheap, but it's still reasonable). There is an exhibition gallery in the opposite room.

Going up on Pusher Street, you find the Børneteatret (Jazz Club). It was a children's theater at the beginning as its name indicates, then it was transformed into a stage dedicated to jazz, blues and hip hop. Famous jam sessions.

A little bit further, my favorite, Operaen. It does cafe, bar, concert hall and theater and its decoration is really lovely.


But I never go to Christiania without hanging out at the Woodstock:


It's a kind of crazy place, it looks like an old bistro, and it gathers all kinds of people: old, young, pure Christianites, foreigners, a bunch of Greenlanders, hippies, students ... They drink, smoke, get high, play backgammon and wiggle after nightfall.

In a different style, you have the Månefiskeren (the Moon Fisher). It doesn't serve any alcohol. In fact, you go there especially to enjoy a good coffee, eat cakes, and enjoy the cool atmosphere. And sometimes to play billiards.


From time to time I also go to the Nemoland café. It is less warm than the others in my opinion, but it has a beautiful terrace that makes sense in the summer, with an outdoor stage.


And there are still others that I have not yet had the opportunity to test!

Den Grå Hal (the Grey Hall) for example. It is the largest concert hall in Christiania, but it also hosts theater performances, meetings, the Christmas market ...

Or the Morgenstedet (the Morning Place). It is a very small restaurant, a little bit hard to find, which serves organic vegetarian cuisine from around the world, and ironically, opens at noon.

Phew, and I didn't even mention all of them. And I didn't say either that you can find in Christiania grocery stores, a bakery, a bike shop, a shoe store, another one for clothes, a movie theater, art galleries, recycling workshops, sculpter and painter's studios, a horse-riding club, a school, a common bathroom, a yoga center, a radio station, a post office ...

In all, there are about 120 companies registered as such in Christiania (source Here is a non-exhaustive list of them.

To finish, I have selected a video if you want to learn more:

In the next episode I will tell you the story of Christiania and the daily lives of its inhabitants.

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